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Bathroom Renovations

Modern, durable bathrooms with proper waterproofing, precise tile work and quality fixtures — from powder rooms to full ensuites.

Bathroom Renovations

The parts of a bathroom that decide how long it lasts are the ones hidden once it is finished: the subfloor, the shower waterproofing, the slope to the drain and the ventilation. We spend most of our planning time there, because a leak behind finished tile is expensive to find and more expensive to fix. The visible choices, from tile and vanity to glass, sit on top of that preparation. Across Toronto and the GTA we renovate main bathrooms, ensuites, powder rooms and basement bathrooms in houses, condos and rental units.

From subfloor to shower membrane: what we build

Our team removes the old room, repairs or replaces damaged subfloor, frames new walls, niches and benches, adds solid backing where grab bars or a wall-hung vanity will go, and builds the shower: cement board or foam board, a waterproofing membrane on walls and floor, and a floor sloped to the drain. Then come the wall and floor tile, the vanity cabinet, mirrors, accessories and paint. A licensed plumber moves drains and supply lines, installs the shower valve and connects the fixtures, and a licensed electrician looks after the fan, lights, outlets and any heated-floor circuit. We sequence the room so each trade arrives when its part is ready.

How a bathroom comes together

  1. Estimate visit — we check the floor for movement, look for signs of past leaks, note where the drain and stack sit, and talk through layout and finishes.
  2. Tear-out — down to the studs and subfloor, with the doorway sealed and the route outside covered.
  3. Repairs and rough-ins — soft subfloor or rotted framing is replaced, the plumber and electrician rough in, and we frame the niches and benches.
  4. Waterproofing — the shower is boarded, every seam and corner is sealed, and the shower floor is water-tested before any tile goes on.
  5. Tile, then fixtures — floor and wall tile, grout and silicone, then the vanity is set and the plumber makes the final connections.
  6. Glass and walkthrough — a custom glass enclosure is measured once the tile is finished and installed by the glass supplier, and we go over the room with you.

How long the room is out of use

Most bathrooms take two to four weeks, depending on size and scope. A powder room with a new vanity, floor tile and paint sits at the short end. A primary ensuite with a tiled walk-in shower, a relocated toilet and frameless glass sits at the long end, partly because the glass cannot be measured until the tile is done. Having materials chosen before tear-out keeps the schedule steady; a special-order tile or vanity that arrives late is a typical reason for a pause. If this is the only bathroom in the house, tell us at the estimate and we will order the work to keep it out of use for as short a stretch as we can.

What drives the price of a bathroom

Moving fixtures is usually the largest variable: a shower drain or toilet in a new spot means plumbing changes and floor work, while keeping the existing layout avoids both. Tile adds cost through its quantity (tiled walls throughout or only in the shower), its size and pattern (large-format porcelain needs a flatter surface, and herringbone or mosaic takes longer to set), and the number of niches and edges to finish. Condition behind the walls counts as well, especially in older homes where a leaking tub surround may have softened the subfloor. We show you any damage we uncover and agree on the repair before carrying it out.

Tub, curb, drain and fan: decisions to make early

  • Tub, shower or both — if this is the only tub in the house, think about small children, bathing a dog and future buyers before taking it out.
  • Curb or curbless — a curbless shower needs the floor recessed so water runs to the drain; over wood joists it is often possible where the framing allows, while on a condo's concrete slab it is usually limited.
  • Linear or centre drain — a linear drain lets the floor slope in one direction, which suits large tiles; a centre drain pairs better with smaller tiles that follow a four-way slope.
  • Niches on interior walls — a niche cut into an outside wall displaces insulation and can gather condensation, so we place them on interior walls where we can.
  • Ventilation — the exhaust fan should vent outdoors and suit the size of the room; it is the simplest defence against peeling paint and mildew.

Finishing the lower level too? We can plan a basement bathroom alongside it. For any bathroom, photos of the room as it is today, with a close look at the floor around the toilet and tub, help us prepare; ask for a free written estimate and we will come by to measure.

What’s Included

  • Tear-out to studs and subfloor, with the rest of the home protected
  • Subfloor and framing repairs, niches, benches and grab bar backing
  • Shower waterproofing membranes and sloped shower floors
  • Wall and floor tile, grout and silicone finishing
  • Tub-to-shower conversions and walk-in shower builds
  • Vanity cabinet, mirror and accessory installation
  • Moisture-resistant drywall, patching and paint

Common Questions

Sometimes, but we rarely recommend it. Tiling over tile only works when the old floor is firmly bonded, flat and free of cracks, and when the added height will not interfere with the door, the toilet or the transition to the hallway. Cracked grout or loose tiles usually mean the subfloor is moving, and new tile would crack the same way. Removing the old floor also lets us inspect the subfloor around the toilet, where leaks tend to show first.

It is common in older bathrooms, especially around the tub and toilet. We stop, show you the damage (with photos if you are not home), explain what needs replacing and what it adds to the estimate, and continue only once you approve. Damaged subfloor and studs are replaced before any waterproofing goes on. If we find extensive mould, we recommend bringing in a remediation specialist before we rebuild.

Yes. The tub comes out, the plumber moves the drain and replaces the valve as needed, and we build a waterproofed shower in the same space, with a low curb or, where the floor framing allows, a curbless entry. This is also the moment to add a niche, a bench or backing for grab bars, which is far simpler than adding them once the walls are tiled.

Most condo corporations want the scope in writing before work begins, and some must approve changes to plumbing, flooring or the exhaust fan. Water shut-offs often have to be arranged through management because the risers are shared, and noisy work is confined to the building's permitted times. Tile, fixtures and debris usually have to travel in a booked service elevator. We ask for the building's rules at the estimate and plan around them.

It comes down to comfort and budget. An electric heating mat is set into the floor just under the tile, so it has to be decided before tiling starts, and a licensed electrician supplies the circuit, the thermostat and the connection. It suits tile floors in rooms you use on cold mornings. Because it adds materials and electrical work, we list it as its own line in your estimate so you can weigh it separately.

Usually, yes. Replacing a toilet, sink or tub in its existing spot counts as a fixture replacement and generally needs no building permit in Toronto. Moving fixtures or adding new ones changes the drain and supply piping, which is a plumbing alteration that normally does need one, and other GTA municipalities take a similar view. We flag at the estimate whether one is likely, help prepare and coordinate it with the plumber, and keep the walls open until the rough-in is inspected.
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Ready When You Are

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