(416) 562-2555 adamsimongta@gmail.com Serving Toronto & the GTA — Free, no-obligation estimates

Decks & Outdoor Living

Custom wood and composite decks, stairs and railings built to last through Ontario winters — plus repairs and refinishing of existing decks.

Decks & Outdoor Living

A deck in the GTA spends its winters under snow, its summers in full sun and every spring and fall going through freeze and thaw. Whether it stays level, solid and safe through all of that comes down to its structure: the footings, the beams and joists, and the way it meets the house. Our crew builds new decks for houses and rental properties in Toronto and around the GTA, and repairs, re-boards and refinishes existing ones.

What holds a deck up

  • Footings below the frost line. Frozen ground expands and can heave shallow posts, so footings go below the depth frost reaches.
  • A frame sized for its spans. Beams and joists are sized and spaced for the distance they cross and the decking on top. Composite boards come with their own joist-spacing rules, which get tighter when boards run on an angle.
  • A sound connection to the house. Where the deck attaches, the ledger board is bolted to the house framing and flashed so rain cannot rot the wall behind it. Brick veneer is not built to carry a deck, so on many brick homes we add a beam and posts along the wall instead.
  • Hardware made for treated lumber. Pressure-treated wood corrodes ordinary steel, so the screws, bolts and joist hangers we use are rated for contact with it.
  • Drainage and airflow. Gaps between boards, ground sloped away from the house and air under the frame let everything dry after rain and snowmelt.

Permits for raised and attached decks

In Ontario, most raised decks need a building permit, and some GTA municipalities also ask for one when a deck is attached to the house or above a certain size. Rules differ by city, so at the estimate we flag whether yours will need one, then help with the application and the back-and-forth with the building department. Even a low deck that needs no permit must still meet local zoning, such as setbacks from the property line. We do not produce permit drawings ourselves, but we work with whoever prepares them and build to the approved plans. Inspections typically look at the footing holes before concrete is poured, the frame before the boards go on, and the finished deck. Decks high enough to need a guard also have code rules for railing height and baluster spacing, and we build railings to meet them.

Boards, railings and the upkeep that comes with them

  • Pressure-treated lumber forms the frame under almost every deck and can be used for the boards too. It is the most economical surface but needs cleaning and a stain or sealer from time to time.
  • Cedar resists rot naturally and has a warm colour; it is softer, so it dents more easily, and needs regular finishing to keep that colour.
  • Composite decking costs more up front and needs washing rather than staining. Darker colours can get hot in full sun.
  • Railings can be wood, aluminum or glass. Wood is the easiest to match to the deck, aluminum needs little upkeep, and glass keeps the view open but shows every smudge.

Outdoor outlets, deck lights and a barbecue gas line are work for a licensed electrician or gas fitter; we leave room in the framing for their lines before the boards go down.

From layout stakes to the final walkthrough

  1. We measure the yard and the door height and write up an estimate listing structure, decking, railings and stairs line by line.
  2. An old deck is taken apart and hauled away, part of our demolition and removal work.
  3. Buried utility lines are located and marked, then footings, posts, beams and joists go in.
  4. Decking, stairs, landings and railings go on, with fascia boards to finish the edges. The surface is kept a little below the door sill so rain and snowmelt stay outside.
  5. We clean up the yard and walk the finished deck with you.

Not every tired deck needs replacing. When the footings and frame are sound, we replace worn boards, rebuild stairs, fix railings and refinish the surface; rot at the ledger or post bases usually means rebuilding, and we say so plainly.

What shapes a deck schedule and budget

Size is the obvious factor, but height matters as much: a raised deck needs longer posts, heavier framing, guards and stairs. Multiple levels, angled corners, built-in benches or planters, and your choice of decking and railing all change the scope. Access counts too, especially in Toronto; on a semi or row house without a side yard, every board, bag of concrete and piece of the old deck has to come through a laneway gate or the house itself. Permits, weather and the lead time on made-to-measure railings such as glass panels shape when the work can start and finish. Repainting nearby house trim can be planned alongside the build.

Start with how you picture using the yard: dinner outside, a spot for the barbecue, a shaded corner to read in. Send us a message to arrange a visit; the size, height and layout in your free written estimate will follow from those plans.

What’s Included

  • Ground-level, raised and multi-level decks
  • Footings, posts, beams and joist framing
  • Stairs, landings, railings and privacy screens
  • Composite, cedar and pressure-treated decking
  • Board, stair and railing repairs on existing decks
  • Cleaning, sanding and staining of wood decks
  • Old deck removal and disposal

Common Questions

Sometimes. If the footings are solid and the joists, beams and ledger are sound, re-boarding can be a sensible way to refresh a deck. We probe the frame for soft wood and check the ledger connection and post bases first. Switching from wood to composite can mean adding joists to meet the spacing the composite boards require. If the frame is failing, new boards would only hide the problem.

It depends on how you weigh the upfront price against the upkeep. Composite boards cost more but only need washing, never sanding and staining. They still sit on a pressure-treated frame, so the structure underneath deserves the same care as on any wood deck, and a deep scratch in composite cannot be sanded out. Pressure-treated boards are more economical at the start and can look very good, provided they are cleaned and restained from time to time.

Not right away. Treated lumber usually arrives wet from the treatment process, and stain will not soak in properly until the wood has dried out. A simple test is to sprinkle a little water on a board: if it beads up, wait; if it soaks in, the wood is ready. We can return to stain the deck when it is ready, or leave that step to you.

Both work when built properly. An attached deck hangs from a ledger bolted to the house framing and flashed against water. A freestanding deck carries its own beam and posts next to the wall, which is the usual answer on houses with brick veneer or where the wall is not a good place for a connection. Permit rules can differ between the two, and we check them for your municipality.

It can be designed to, but a filled hot tub with people in it weighs far more than the everyday loads a typical deck frame is sized for. The footings and framing under it need to be designed for that weight, usually by an engineer or designer, and shown on the permit drawings. Setting the tub on its own pad at ground level with the deck built around it is often simpler. The electrical supply is run by a licensed electrician.
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